Bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and very rarely do we fit perfectly into a pattern straight away. Pattern designers create patterns with a measurement chart of "standard sizes", but each size chart will vary by company. You might fit perfectly into a single size, or you might find that your individual measurements span several sizes. In the tutorial below, I will share you with how to adjust your panty patterns when your waist and hip measurements fall between two different sizes.
When the waist and hip measurements fall between two different sizes, we will need to create a new side seam and blend the two sizes together. We don't want any sharp curves or angles, but a gentle curve that will mimic the natural shape of the body.
Larger Waist and Smaller Hip
In the image below, we blend a larger size waist into a smaller size hip. Adjust both the front and back pieces, and check to make sure the shaping matches. Use the smaller hip size for the leg opening and gusset shape.
Smaller Waist and Larger Hip
Now we will adjust for a smaller waist and larger hip size. Adjust both the front and back pieces, and check to make sure the shaping matches. Use the larger hip size for the leg opening and gusset shape.
A hip curve ruler is very helpful when drawing gentle curves to blend between sizes. Here is a link to one from Wawak; I am not an affiliate, but I frequently purchase sewing supplies from them and am always happy with my shopping experience.
Other Pattern Adjustments
I hope you found this brief tutorial helpful. Below are some of my previous tutorials for altering panty patterns to get the best fit for your body shape. If there are any other fitting tutorials you'd like to see, leave me a comment below! Happy Sewing!
Fitting Underwear: Full Tummy Adjustment
Fitting Underwear: Changing the rise for a different torso length
Fitting Underwear: Help! My bum is eating my undies!
Fitting Underwear: Gusset Too Wide
Here are the beautiful creations of my pattern testers for the Silvena Boyshort.
I am so happy to share with you my new pattern, the Silvena Boyshort!
My Tanja Boyshort pattern has become one of my best-selling patterns, so I wanted to create for you a boyshort specially designed to use beautiful stretch laces. Let's take a closer look.
Ahead of publishing my new lace boyshort pattern, I wanted to share with you a pattern alteration to help achieve the best fit in boyshorts. Do you ever find the back of the leg opening gaping at the bum? Perhaps you have a flatter bum or narrower hips than what the pattern is drafted for. Below is a simple pattern alteration to shorten the width of the leg opening to get a smoother fit.
Problem: Gaping at the bum
Excess fabric and looseness at the back leg opening
Solution: Shorten the width of the leg opening
Determine the excess amount and divide by two. For this example, let's use 1" as the excess amount; divided in two and we have 1/2".
On the pattern piece, bring in the inseam at the leg opening 1/2" on each side. You can see the new inseam and leg opening lines below drawn in red. Measure the new inseam length on each side to make sure the lengths match. Adjust if necessary.
If you are using a pattern with elastic or bands to finish the leg opening, you will need to shorten those lengths as well.
If you have any questions, or suggestions for other panty fitting tutorials, leave me a comment below. Until next time, Happy Sewing.
Now that we are finished with the Delvine Bralette Sew-Along in the Bra Makers group, I am sharing the videos here for you to watch at your convenience. I hope they are helpful! Happy Sewing!
Who's ready for a sew-along??? I am!
I've been busy filming and editing videos to share with you each week in October. Join me, and every week you can work on a Delvine Bralette with me step by step.
I will share a video each Sunday, beginning October 4, 2020 through November 1, 2020.
I will be sharing the videos in the Bra Makers Beginners through Intermediate group on Facebook. No need to sign up anywhere, just join the group.
Get yourself and copy of the Delvine Bralette pattern, and join me on Week 1 to hear about fabric and trim choices, helpful tools and sizing.
I hope to see you there!
I'm back with the third pattern hack for the Delvine Bralette. I wanted to create a longline bralette with a more vintage feel, and also add some features that will increase support and coverage.
My original design idea for the Delvine Bralette was to have a gathered cup. But after I started adding the lace overlay options, there were just too many choices. I decided it would be better to include the gathered cup as a pattern hack.
In this quick tutorial video, learn how to change the bust dart into gathers, while still adding a lining with darts for bust support and shaping.
If you have any questions, leave me a comment below. Happy Sewing!
I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range. Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body.