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Fitting Underwear: Changing the rise for a different torso length

7/25/2019

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Next up in my fitting and alteration series is changing the rise length.  Wanting to change the rise length might be a personal preference, or it may be due to a difference in torso length.  For this fitting/alteration exercise I'm going to assume that it is due to a different body shape than what the pattern was drafted for.

During the testing phase of the Hellebore Hi-Cut, one of my testers said she was surprised by how very high cut the legs were, and her pair seemed to be much higher than the pictures indicated.  After a bit of conversation, we determined that her crotch length was 2" shorter than the length indicated for her size.  ​Let's use this same fitting problem here:

Problem: The rise is too long, but waist and hip measurements are correct.

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Ready to start your lingerie-making journey? Begin with the hellebore hi-cut panties

7/17/2019

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Are you satisfied with what’s in your underwear drawer?

​For years I grumbled every time I had to buy new panties, because I never found anything I really liked.

The fabric is too scratchy, the elastic is too tight, the gusset is far too short to be effective.

​I felt like Goldilocks trying to find a brand and style that fit all my needs and didn’t break the bank.

What if you could make your own panties, designed for comfort and feminine style, with knit fabrics you probably already have in your stash?



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Fitting Underwear: Help! My bum is eating my undies!

7/16/2019

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Next up in my panty fitting series is probably the most common problem I see; the back of the panty sliding into the bum and causing much discomfort.  In American English we call it a wedgie.  What causes it and how do we fix it?  Let's take a look.

Problem: The back of the panty is sliding into my bum

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Fitting Underwear: Gusset too wide

7/11/2019

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Creating a test garment and fitting a pattern is pretty standard among sewists, because rarely do we fit into whatever standard measurements a designer uses.  Ready-to-wear clothing is designed to fit a wide range of bodies, which is why it tends to have lots of ease and fabric that stretches whenever possible. 

​But what about undergarments? Something that is worn so closely against the body needs to be fitted carefully, and I haven't seen too many resources for fitting panties.  So here I am with a short series of fitting problems you might encounter while fitting your undies.

Problem: The gusset is too wide

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Hellebore Hi-Cut: Tester Roundup 3

7/10/2019

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Today I have the final tester roundup for the Hellebore Hi-Cut.  If you missed it, here are part 1 and part 2.
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Robin @robin.whiting
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Robin @robin.whiting
Robin used some very cool Game of Thrones inspired fabric.

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Hellebore Hi-Cut: Tester roundup 2

7/9/2019

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Hello, sewing friends!  Back again today with the second tester roundup for the Hellebore Hi-Cut panties.  In case you missed it, here is the first tester roundup.
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Edyta Jakubczak @edytka86
When Edyta signed up as a tester, she shared with me that she was five months pregnant and wanted to make sure I'd be ok with her testing.  Since I have never been pregnant myself, and don't know much about maternity clothing, I thought why not?  The Hellebore Hi-Cut worked out well for her as far as fit, and I just love the double brushed poly print she used.

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Hellebore Hi-Cut: Tester Roundup 1

7/8/2019

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Hello, sewing friends! Today I'm sharing with you the first of three tester roundups for the Hellebore Hi-Cut panties.

When I created my first pattern, the Daisy Briefs, I received requests for panties with options for self bands and binding, and also for a back with less coverage.  So I decided to make another basic style panty, this one with high leg openings (you might also know them as French cut), and provide several finishing options.

I love seeing the fun prints and colors that my testers come up with.  Along with checking for a good fit across my size range, my testers provide me with helpful feedback on the instructions and inspiration for new color combinations.  Some of them have such cute and funny knits in their fabric stashes, I'm finding new vendors to shop from.

So, here are the first six projects from my testers:
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Amanda Donegan @oh_sew_ama
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Amanda Donegan @oh_sew_ama
Hot Pink and black is such a classic combination.  Amanda made up Style B, and it is fun to see what the lace looks like over a print.

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New pattern: Hellebore Hi-cut Underwear

7/3/2019

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I'm so happy to share with you my new pattern, the Hellebore Hi-Cut!
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    Cassie

    I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range.  Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body. 

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