PRIMROSE DAWN
  • Blog
  • PDF Sewing Patterns
  • Common Fitting Alterations
  • Size Chart
  • Pattern Testing
  • About
  • Fabric/Trim Resources
  • Store Policies
  • Contact
Picture

Darcey Bra in Beige Satin Spandex

6/2/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
Yesterday I sewed my first Darcey Bra by Evie La Luve.  My feelings about it are a bit mixed, but I think I will sew myself another Darcey Bra in the future with some modifications to the fit and the fabric choice.

Fabrics

Self: Satin Spandex from Spandex World, which has 50% lengthwise stretch and 0 crosswise stretch. 
​Lining: Lightweight power mesh from Fabric Depot

Trims

Ivory fold over elastic from Sew Sassy
1/2"  picot edge elastic from Fabric Depot
3/8" strap elastic from Fabric Depot.  I didn't realize until the end that I really should have used wider strap elastic, so I had to redo the FOE on the strap attachment points to make them narrower.

Choosing a Size

According to the pattern instructions, the Darcey Bra was drafted for B-D cups, and the only measurement given for choosing a size is the full bust measurement.  Every time I see this in a bralette pattern it makes me a bit nervous, because the full bust vs band size for a B cup is much different than a D cup. 

The last time I chose a size based solely on my full bust measurement I ended up with a band that was way too big.  This time I decided to make an educated guess, and I measured the bottom of the pattern pieces, subtracted the seam allowances, and added in the hook and eye width to figure out the band measurement.

I also measured my bras and bralettes and found that I usually make a band 28" finished.  This includes the elastic, so I know that without the elastic it should be slightly longer.  My full bust is 37.5", which puts me between and medium and large, but my underbust is 31.5".  

Size small band measured 27.5" and size medium measured 31".  I decided to try using medium cup pieces and a small band, and that combination would produce a 29" band.  

Sewing

Picture
Sewing went pretty well.  The pattern was clear, and the pieces went together easily.  I really like that all the seams are enclosed in the lining, so it makes a nice finish.  
Picture
I did end up with two small problems, both my fault.  Number one, at some point the right side of the cup snagged on my feed dogs and made a run in the fabric.  A bummer, but that happens with nylon knits.  Number two, I didn't pay enough attention when I chose my strap elastic and realized it was a bit small.  I also didn't see I needed two sets of rings for this project.  So instead of using rings at the front of the cups I just underlapped the straps to the bra cup and added zigzag at the join.  Not the prettiest joining method, but much less bulky.

Fit

Picture
The fit is wearable, but could use a few adjustments.  Overall, this bralette does not provide a lot of support; but I think that is an unreasonable expectation for a simple bralette that doesn't have a separate cradle and has stretch cups.  I think I need to take about 1/4" each side of the center front seam because it is quite wide on me.  The band still feels pretty loose, but I think that is from my fabric choices. 

The pattern said to use stretch fabrics such as cotton/spandex jersey, mesh and scuba and to line with power mesh or power net.  The stretch factor on all those fabrics is quite different, so I think the results would fit quite differently. Next time I think I will choose a fabric with a bit less stretch for the cups, maybe scuba or lace, and use a heavier powernet for the back band. Also I might add a bit more projection to the pattern, like I did with my Barrett Bralette.

Overall, this was a fun and quick bralette to sew.  I love the different style options, so once I nail down the fit alterations, I'll have some fun with adding lace and mesh inserts.  

​Happy Sewing!
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.

    Picture

    Cassie

    I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range.  Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body. 

    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture

    Categories

    All
    Bramaking
    Elastics
    Fabrics
    Fitting
    Menswear
    New Pattern
    Pattern Alterations
    Pattern Drafting
    Pattern Hack
    Primrosedawnpatterns
    Project Page
    Sewing
    Sewingchallenge
    Shirtmaking
    Sizing
    Testerroundup
    Tips And Techniques
    Tools
    Video

    Subscribe to our newsletter

    * indicates required

    Archives

    October 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    November 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019

    RSS Feed

Proudly powered by Weebly
  • Blog
  • PDF Sewing Patterns
  • Common Fitting Alterations
  • Size Chart
  • Pattern Testing
  • About
  • Fabric/Trim Resources
  • Store Policies
  • Contact