PRIMROSE DAWN
  • Blog
  • PDF Sewing Patterns
  • Common Fitting Alterations
  • Size Chart
  • Pattern Testing
  • About
  • Fabric/Trim Resources
  • Store Policies
  • Contact
Picture

Delvine Bralette: Moving the Dart Position

8/20/2020

0 Comments

 
Picture
When I create patterns, I try to make them easy to customize not only for style but for fit as well.  To get an optimal fit in the Delvine Bralette, it may be necessary to move the dart position so that it is aligned with the apex on the body.

What is the apex?

The apex is the fullest part of the bust, usually where the nipple lies.  In the photo above, you can see that the dart aligns with the fullest part of the bust, and also aligns with the vertical seam on the dress form.  Depending on your body shape, it may be necessary to alter the apex position on the pattern pieces.​

Video Tutorial

Below is a video tutorial showing you how to determine your apex measurement and how to alter the pattern pieces.  As I mention in the video, regardless of what front style you wish to use, you will need to begin with changing the pattern piece for Front A, D, E, F.  Once you have changed it, you will need to copy the changes to Front B/C and any of the lace overlay pieces you wish to use.

Other Dart Questions

I have received a few other dart-related questions, so I will answer them here.

​Why does the dart go past the apex?
Usually when sewing tops and dresses, we want the dart to end 1"+ away from the apex point.  If the dart ended directly at the apex, that would create pointiness in the bust, which is not very flattering. On my initial sample of the Delvine, I had the dart end directly at the apex point and the shape it created was pointy and not very pretty.  But having the dart end above the apex point creates a nice rounded shape.  

Why are the dart legs curved?
Again, when sewing tops and dresses, we usually see straight dart legs.  Curved dart legs create a shape that contours more closely to the body, and in bra-making we definitely want a close fit!  The curves in the dart legs create a rounded shape that contours to the roundness of the breast.

How can I transfer the dart onto my fabric?
When I made my samples, I used transfer marking paper and a tracing wheel.  But one of my testers had a brilliant idea!  She printed out an extra front piece and cut out the dart area, then used that to trace the dart.

Do you have any other dart-related questions?  Ask me in the comments section below.  Until next time, Happy Sewing!
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.

    Picture

    Cassie

    I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range.  Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body. 

    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture

    Categories

    All
    Bramaking
    Elastics
    Fabrics
    Fitting
    Menswear
    New Pattern
    Pattern Alterations
    Pattern Drafting
    Pattern Hack
    Primrosedawnpatterns
    Project Page
    Sewing
    Sewingchallenge
    Shirtmaking
    Sizing
    Testerroundup
    Tips And Techniques
    Tools
    Video

    Subscribe to our newsletter

    * indicates required

    Archives

    October 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    November 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019

    RSS Feed

Proudly powered by Weebly
  • Blog
  • PDF Sewing Patterns
  • Common Fitting Alterations
  • Size Chart
  • Pattern Testing
  • About
  • Fabric/Trim Resources
  • Store Policies
  • Contact