Today I am going to share with you two ways to adjust the gusset length. There are two possible issues when it comes to gusset length, and each has a different solution. The gusset length can either be too short, and extra length is needed, or the gusset position on the body is incorrect (but the overall length is fine) and the position needs to be readjusted.
Problem: The gusset length is too short
Symptoms: the gusset is getting sucked down between the legs, causing wrinkles in the crotch area and the center front waist is pulling downwards.
Keep in mind that wrinkles in the crotch area can also indicate that the gusset is too wide. If the gusset is too wide, you will also get wrinkles on the back of the gusset as well. To fix a too wide gusset, see this blog post. The center front waist pulling downwards (without wrinkles in the crotch area) can indicate a need for a full tummy/pelvic tilt adjustment. Please see this blog post.
Solution: Add length to the gusset
You can determine the amount needed in two ways. First, you can see how much length you would need at the center front to get the waist in the correct position. Cut apart the gusset slightly above center towards the front, and add in this amount. Blend the new lines into the shaping of the gusset. You will also now need additional length in the leg elastics, so make a note of how much length you added in the elastic lengths chart.
The example in the illustration is very exaggerated; if you are needing to add more than an inch in length, you might also need to do a full tummy adjustment.
The second method, if your panty sample is too uncomfortable to wear, is to cut apart the gusset in the center of the gusset and see how much additional length is needed to make it comfortable. Sew extra fabric on the back end of the gusset. Try on the panty and pin the front end of the fabric to the gusset. With the additional length, the center of the waistline should rest in a comfortable position and not feel like it is being pulled down. Remove the panty and measure the length needed to add to the gusset, following the illustration above to blend the new lines. You will also now need additional length in the leg elastics, so make a note of how much length you added in the elastic lengths chart.
If you want to read a fascinating article on pelvic diversity and how it affects fitting panties, check out this article by The Sewcialists.
If you have any other questions about panty fitting, leave me a comment below.
I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range. Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom-made bras and panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body.