I’ve already covered pattern alterations for adjusting the rise for a different torso length, which affects both the front and back rise length. But what do we do when the back rise length is good, and the front rise dips too low?
Problem: The back rise fits well, but the front rise dips too low
Symptoms: The front rise dips down much lower than the back rise.
This can be due to a full tummy or anterior pelvic tilt. Either way, we need more fabric at the front to bring the rise up closer to waist level.
Solution: Add length to the front rise and blend into the waistline at the side seams or back waist.
Before we begin, I want to show you my basic block for panties, which I draft all my patterns from. You can see the waist guideline as the dashed grey line. The back rise is ½” below the guideline, and the front rise is 1” below the guideline; these are just standard measurements. It would probably be uncomfortable to have the waistlines land straight across the body at waist level, so that is why they dip down slightly and curve gently over to the side seams.
If you have already made a pair of undies, and want to adjust the length for your next pair, just measure from the top of the waistband at the center front up to where you want the new waistline to be. There are two methods for raising the waistline. The first will work for adjustments up to 1”.
Method #1: Raising the waist up to 1"
For this exercise, let’s say we want to add 3/4” to the front rise length.
This is your new Front pattern piece.
My original panty block has the front waistline lowered 1" from the waist guideline, so we can’t use this method for an adjustment of more than 1”; it would be impossible to keep the center front line square and blend into the side seam. If you need to raise the waistline more than 1", continue reading to method #2.
Method #2: Raising the waist more than 1"
If you need to add more than 1”, it is necessary to raise the side seams a bit as well. For this exercise we will need to adjust the back pattern piece along with the front. Let’s assume we need to raise the front waist 2”.
Overlap the front and back pieces at the stitching lines at the top and bottom of the side seams. The curves of the side seams will overlap. When I am making alterations that cross seam lines, I find it helpful to cut off the seam allowances and then add them back in at the end. It just creates less confusion about where the seam lines are.
There you have it! Two methods for raising the front rise.
Are there any other panty fitting alterations you'd like to see? Leave me a comment below. Until next time, happy sewing!
9/2/2020 08:16:02 am
This is so very helpful, but I hope you can help me with an additional issue- my stomach (penniculous) doesn't get coverage all the way to the leg openings. Is there anyway you can explain how I might achieve this? Should I add more to the leg openings, or would a slash and spread be better? I am not very 3D knowledgeable as I have no depth perception, and flat patterns don't make it easier. Any help would be so appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a couple of months, and I'd really like to sew my own underpants.
9/2/2020 12:50:42 pm
Hello Ann! It sounds like you need more coverage lower down, as opposed to the waist area. I think you could follow the pattern alterations for adding more bum coverage (my blog post "Help! My Bum is Eating My Undies!") but do it for the front of the panty. https://www.primrosedawn.com/blog/fitting-underwear-help-my-bum-is-eating-my-undies
9/2/2020 02:05:38 pm
Thank you for such a fast response! I have printed the response email, and will try the suggestions!
2/28/2022 06:51:04 am
How do you alter the bum area on a Pantygirdle? Will the stretchyness of the material be a concern? We have the smallest size but with a small bum, that area is a bit baggy.
3/1/2022 04:18:55 pm
6/21/2022 08:47:22 am
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I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range. Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body.