Fitting Underwear: Gusset too wide
Creating a test garment and fitting a pattern is pretty standard among sewists, because rarely do we fit into whatever standard measurements a designer uses. Ready-to-wear clothing is designed to fit a wide range of bodies, which is why it tends to have lots of ease and fabric that stretches whenever possible.
But what about undergarments? Something that is worn so closely against the body needs to be fitted carefully, and I haven't seen too many resources for fitting panties. So here I am with a short series of fitting problems you might encounter while fitting your undies.
Problem: The gusset is too wide
Vertical folds of excess fabric through the gusset and into the front and back of the panty.
Remove excess width from the gusset. Adjust the front and back pieces to match new gusset width.
Begin by determining the amount of width needed to be removed. Try on the panty and pinch out a vertical fold the length of the gusset to remove the excess width. For this example, let's say we have a fold 1/4" wide on each side. Double that, and we need to remove 1/2" total from the gusset piece.
Fold your gusset piece in half to find the center, and draw lines on either side half the amount needed to be removed. In this case, draw lines 1/4" away from the center line.
Cut down the center line of the gusset. Overlap and match the drawn lines; 1/2" total has been removed from the width. After taping in place, you will probably need to smooth the curves where the front and back pieces join.
Since we have removed width from the gusset, we now need to remove width from the front and back pieces so that the seams will match. Remove 1/4" from each side of the front at the gusset seam, blending the lines up into the leg curve. Repeat for the back piece.
And voila! Your pattern is now finished. If you have other panty fitting questions, please leave me a comment below. Happy Sewing!
12/18/2019 05:14:00 am
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4/15/2022 12:59:19 am
Thank you for this! I am making some cute underwear and this is happening on both fit models! I suspected this was the issue but I appreciate you taking the time to write about it!
3/2/2023 05:13:28 am
Thank you so much for this explanation! I'm a beginner sewist and I recently made my first pair of briefs. I had this problem with the gusset and I tried to tackle it in a different way (didn't work that well...) but now I know the proper way to do it! I will try it out today on my third pair. :)
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I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range. Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body.