Need to move the apex position up or down in the Annika Wireless Bra or Zenita Wireless Bra?  This tutorial is for you.

This tutorial below shows how to lower the apex position.  If you need to raise the apex position, the same principles can be applied. For the Annika Wireless Bra, it is easiest to begin with the foam cup pieces, even if you aren’t going to make the foam cup option.  For the Zenita Wireless Bra, remove the vertical cup seam allowances on the Inner/Outer Cup pieces. Tutorial below shows the Annika Wireless Bra pieces.

Align the inner edges of the Inner Cup foam pieces to form the dart shape.

Mark your new apex position.  In this tutorial we are moving the apex down, but you can go the opposite direction if your apex needs to be moved up.

Outer Cup: Blend into the seamline, adjusting the curve for your shape as necessary.
Inner Cup: copy the dart shape and move downwards.  Adjust the length of the dart legs so that they are equal.  The shape of the dart can also be adjusted at this point to fit your shape.
Check the vertical seam lengths on both pieces to be sure they still match.

Add notch at the new apex point, and adjust the other notches as needed.  If you are using foam cups, trace off your new pieces and separate the upper and lower pieces of the inner cup.

For the foam cup cover or regular cup without foam, add seam allowances along the vertical seam and at the dart legs.  Adjust the notch positions and add a notch at the new apex point.