Updated April 2024. This post contains an affiliate link. I have not been paid to endorse this book, all opinions are my honest review.

Over the past few years I have tried multiple bra drafting methods (including those created by Beverly Johnson of Bra Maker’s Supply and Dr. Kristina Chin, author of Patternmaking for Underwear Design) and the method created by Jennifer Lynne Fairbanks of Porcelynne is by far the superior method. I’ve used the drafting method described in Bare Essentials Bras 3rd Ed multiple times, and it is the most detailed and creates the best fitting result. Every time I have drafted a bra from scratch, only minor changes in fit are needed. Something I especially love about this drafting method is that it takes torso shape into account. I have a narrow ribcage, and adjusting the band shape in other patterns takes a few fitting trials; with this drafting method the shape is nearly spot on at the first try!

Along with including information for creating a basic bra pattern (a “bra sloper”), there are instructions for modifying the sloper into different styles of bras, fitting adjustments, and information on bra sewing and supplies. The bra drafting instructions include methods for drawing by hand on paper and also using computer software such as Adobe Illustrator.

If you are a designer, this book includes information on grading a bra pattern. This is the one and only method of bra grading that I use, because the information presented is clear and sensible. I can’t usually say that about other grading methods!

I highly recommend this book for anyone who wants to create a custom bra pattern and design their own styles. Don’t be intimidated by all the measuring and math! There is a handy online calculator that does all the hard work for you. Bare Essentials Bras 3rd Edition is available in PDF or printed formats.

Original post below from September 2019

I’ll begin this post by saying I have not been paid in any way to endorse or give a review of this book.  I’m just a bra-making fangirl giving her opinion!

​I was so excited when Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks came out with the 3rd edition of her book Bare Essentials: Bras.  This new edition has a whole new drafting method that takes into account torso size and shape for a completely custom fit! I have the previous edition of her book and found it monumentally helpful for drafting bra patterns.  I haven’t been completely satisfied with my Shin draft, (there were too many unexplained variables in the drafting instructions) so I wanted to try a different drafting method and compare.  

I wish I could say I was meticulous and documented my whole process with photos, but I didn’t.  Once I get my math and drafting mojo, I jump in and work without stopping.  The calculations in the book look intimidating, but Jennifer made a handy bra calculator to do the hard work for you.  I couldn’t figure out how to print the results, so I took a picture with my phone.

I like to draft in Adobe Illustrator, but I think most people drafting their bras are working by hand.  This book covers both methods, which I found very helpful. 

I decided to use a new wire, the Carmen by Emerald Erin.  I have wide roots, and the shape of this wire seemed like it would be a better fit for me than a regular wire.  The problem? The Bare Essentials calculator is designed to use the wires (either regular or vertical) from Jennifer’s store, Porcelynne.  Maybe I shouldn’t say it’s a problem, just took a bit more effort from me since I wasn’t using her standard wire shape.

I drafted the whole bra and found that the cups did not fit into the frame.  The issue was my new wire; the length was different than a regular wire length.  So after I adjusted everything, I printed out my pattern and made a practice bra.  I used the suggested 2.5% curves and ended up with a very shallow cup.  Not even close to enough projection.  I upped the curves to 5%, which is suggested for people using vertical wires and the fit was much better.  Here’s a peek at my cup pieces.    

I’m happy to say that after fitting this version of the pattern pieces, I only needed very minor changes.  This process was challenging, but in a good way.  It helped me understand more the architecture of a bra and how the pieces work together to fit my particular shape.  Here is the final made up version of my draft.  There is wrinkling in the cups because the fabric stretched a bit too much while I was sewing, and unfortunately I didn’t see that one of the cups was set in crooked until I had finished the whole bra.  Oops!  I used a wicking bra kit from Emerald Erin.

I’ve worn this bra a few times, and have a few minor alterations to make to the pattern.  The band is a bit too long, so I’ll shorten it.  The sides come up a bit too high into my armpit, and there is too much excess between the end of the wire and the end of the channeling.  I’m always worried about there being enough room for the wire to move, but I think I went overboard.

After finalizing the fit, here is a peek at the bra sloper pattern pieces.

All those colorful lines on the bra cup are possible style lines. So many choices, the possibilities are endless!

Are you intimidated by the idea of bra drafting? Will you give it a try?