Fabrics for Maritza Sports Bra

Today I'd like to talk about the various fabric choices for the Maritza Sports Bra.  While I designed the style to be a supportive bra, the fabric makes a huge impact on whether the breasts are supported or just covered.

Below are modeled photos of four samples, each made in different fabrics, and each showing a slightly different amount of support.

1.  Self fabric: football pant spandex from Spandex World.  87% nylon 13% spandex, 356 gm/m2 10.5oz/sq yd, 35% stretch width and length.
This one is very supportive, the fabrics are laying flat and smooth again the skin, no wrinkling.  To wear, this fabric feels a bit heavy duty, and I used a hook and eye closure (Back F) to be able to pull over my head easily.


2.  Cups and Bridge: scuba, from a grab bag, so details are unknown, but it has less than 30% stretch.
Cradle and band: spandex swim fabric, from Sew Sassy, 80% nylon 20% spandex, 6.5 oz, 75% stretch width and length.
Cups are lined with cut and sew foam, the rest with stretch mesh.  The combination of scuba and foam makes a very supportive and lifted cup.

3. Self fabric: supplex from Spandex World.  87% micro nylon, 13% spandex, 250 gm/m2, 7.37 oz/sq yd, 50% stretch width and length.
Now we are seeing slightly less support.  This fabric is thinner and lighter weight than the previous fabrics and has more stretch.  I also used a serger for sewing the cross cup seam and it is very rippled.  There is wrinkling at the sides of the bra as well.  This bra is soft and comfortable, and the fabric is suitable for making a matching pair of leggings.

​4.  Cups: Stretch mesh with lace overlays.  85% nylon 15% spandex, 35% stretch width and 60% stretch length.
Bridge and cradle: printed spandex swim tricot from Spandex World.  90% nylon 10% spandex, 200 gm/m2, 5.9oz/sq yd, 65% stretch width and 45% stretch length.  
This is the least supportive of the bras I made, and really this one is more of a sleep or lounge bra.  Fabrics are thin and very stretchy.  You can see the wrinkling on the sides, and that the bottom of the breasts hang down slightly over the band.

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So what did we learn comparing these fabrics?

• heavier weight fabrics can be more supportive (football pant spandex  at 10.5 oz versus swim tricot 5.9 oz)
• cut and sew foam creates a supportive lining
• a higher spandex content alone does not necessarily make a more supportive fabric.  The stretch mesh  has more spandex (15%) than the football pant spandex (13%) but is definitely less supportive.
• stretch percentage is important too.  30-50% stretch in both directions is ideal.  Not enough stretch and it will be difficult to put on the bra, but too much stretch (as in the swim tricot and stretch mesh) and it will not provide much support. 

This is only a small sampling of fabrics you can use in the Maritza Sports Bra.  I encourage you to study the properties of your fabric to decide if it will work well for you: what is the weight, fiber content, stretch percentage?  The most satisfying part of sewing for oneself is getting to be the designer.  My job (and my joy) is to provide you with the tools and information to make the best choices for your project.

What fabrics do you want to try for your next sports bra?  

​Until next time, happy sewing.