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Tulip Hi-Cut Pattern Hack: Lace Back

1/6/2022

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Happy New Year, dear sewists!  After a short winter holiday, I am back at work.  Today I wanted to share with you a pattern hack for my latest panty pattern, the Tulip Hi-Cut.  While developing this pattern, I had considered a lace back option, but I already had too many varations.  During my holiday, I decided to come back to that idea and try it out as a pattern hack.  I hope you enjoy the following tutorial.  Happy Sewing!
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Adjusting the Pattern

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Print out your back piece and tape it over some paper.  Mark the seam allowances on the gusset and side seams.  I find it easier to make everything match perfectly when I know exactly where the seam is.

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Mark a straight line from the bottom of the side seam to the bottom of the gusset seam.  Note: we are marking to the seamlines, not the edge of the pattern piece.
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Continue the straight line into the seam allowances.  This will make cutting easier, and the pointy ends of the seams will be trimmed during sewing.
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Add 1/4"/6mm seam allowance to the center back.  If you need a reminder, you can make a note "align low point of lace" along the leg opening.
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Your final pattern piece will be cut 2 lace.  Be sure to mirror the pattern pieces to have a symmetrical lace pattern.

Sewing

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With right sides together, sew the center back seam of Back with a stretch stitch.  Here I used a lightning stitch.
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Finger press the seam allowance to one side and topstitch with zigzag stitch.  Trim the excess seam allowance.
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Sew the Front to both Gusset layers, following the instructions in the pattern.  On the right, here is my (somewhat messy) graded seam allowance.
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Apply fold over elastic to the leg openings.
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Sew Front/Gusset unit to Back, right sides together with a straight stitch.  Finger press seam allowance towards the Back, and topstitch with zigzag stitch.  Trim excess seam allowance
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With right sides together, sew one side seam.  Finger press seam allowance towards the back.  Apply FOE along the waistline.
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Sew remaining side seam.  If desired, add bartracks at the side seams to compress the elastics.  Trim excess elastic.  Enjoy!
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    Cassie

    I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range.  Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body. 

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