When I create patterns, I try to make them easy to customize not only for style but for fit as well. To get an optimal fit in the Delvine Bralette, it may be necessary to move the dart position so that it is aligned with the apex on the body.
What is the apex?
The apex is the fullest part of the bust, usually where the nipple lies. In the photo above, you can see that the dart aligns with the fullest part of the bust, and also aligns with the vertical seam on the dress form. Depending on your body shape, it may be necessary to alter the apex position on the pattern pieces.
Below is a video tutorial showing you how to determine your apex measurement and how to alter the pattern pieces. As I mention in the video, regardless of what front style you wish to use, you will need to begin with changing the pattern piece for Front A, D, E, F. Once you have changed it, you will need to copy the changes to Front B/C and any of the lace overlay pieces you wish to use.
Other Dart Questions
I have received a few other dart-related questions, so I will answer them here.
Why does the dart go past the apex?
Usually when sewing tops and dresses, we want the dart to end 1"+ away from the apex point. If the dart ended directly at the apex, that would create pointiness in the bust, which is not very flattering. On my initial sample of the Delvine, I had the dart end directly at the apex point and the shape it created was pointy and not very pretty. But having the dart end above the apex point creates a nice rounded shape.
Why are the dart legs curved?
Again, when sewing tops and dresses, we usually see straight dart legs. Curved dart legs create a shape that contours more closely to the body, and in bra-making we definitely want a close fit! The curves in the dart legs create a rounded shape that contours to the roundness of the breast.
How can I transfer the dart onto my fabric?
When I made my samples, I used transfer marking paper and a tracing wheel. But one of my testers had a brilliant idea! She printed out an extra front piece and cut out the dart area, then used that to trace the dart.
Do you have any other dart-related questions? Ask me in the comments section below. Until next time, Happy Sewing!
I couldn't make patterns without the invaluable feedback from my hard-working pattern testers! They help me find any errors in the instructions and pattern pieces, and also help me test out my size range. Below are the beautiful creations from my pattern testers for the Delvine Bralette.
Oh my goodness... once I took a close look at the main fabric, it made me laugh!!
Every time I test a new pattern, I am amazed by what lovely creations my testers make. I am very happy to be sharing with you today the tester photos from my Tanja Boyshort pattern.
Iris Bralette: This bralette combines four different fabrics all in shades of light pink, and all from the same source: Spandex World. The cradle is milliskin, the cups are matte glissenette, the back band is powernet, and the lining is a stretch mesh.
Tanja Boyshort: This is a super soft rayon/spandex print from Girl Charlee.
Iris Bralette: Lace is from Cindy Lace Show on Etsy, pink piping elastic along the neckline and underarm edge is from Sew Sassy, pink 1/2" strap elastic and plush picot elastic are from Tailor Made Shoppe.
Tanja Boyshort: 3/8" plain picot elastic is from saleandbargain on Ebay.
Iris Bralette: I wanted to play with having sheer cups (and back extension) with lace overlays. The only difficult part is finding all the fabrics in matching colors. I took a chance and ordered the fabrics from the same source, and luckily they match decently well. The lace is more of a lavender than pink, but I think it still goes well with the other fabrics.
Tanja Boyshort: Along with the floating gusset, my other pet peeve about most boyshorts is that the leg openings are usually finished with a plain folded back hem. I feel like this gets stretched out during the day and then too much of my bum cheek hangs out the back. I prefer to feel secure, so I created an option for the boyshort that has an elastic finish on the leg.
Hello, sewing friends! Yesterday I learned there was a problem with using PayPal on my website. So if you tried to make a purchase and it didn't go through, I apologize. It has been fixed now, and hopefully will keep working.
Just a reminder that through the month of April, 50% of the proceeds from the Tanja Boyshort will be donated to my local food pantry, the Harker Heights Food Care Center. This is a difficult time we are living in, and I want to do my part and help those in need.
And now, here is another featured set of the week:
Hello, sewing friends! These are certainly strange times we are living in. I've spent the last few weeks holed up in my house, like so many people, feeling a bit isolated. It's at times like this that I am so thankful to have hobbies to keep my mind and hands busy. I hope you have been able to find some comfort with your sewing, just like I have.
I have tried to carry on with my life as normally as I can, and that means I have continued designing patterns. I am happy to share with you today my latest creation, the Tanja Boyshort.
In light of the current health and economic crises, through the end of April I will be donating 50% of the Tanja Boyshort proceeds to my local food pantry, the Harker Heights Food Care Center.
Now, on with the details of the pattern...
I enjoy wearing boyshorts under summer dresses, but my main pet peeve is the floating gusset. In RTW boyshorts, the gussets are usually just tacked down in a few spots and flop around the inside of the short. I find this a bit annoying and uncomfortable. My goal with this pattern was to create a boyshort style with an enclosed gusset, and also to offer a variety of finishing options.
Waist and leg openings can be finished with lace...
Or a covered elastic waist and folded up hem.
Waist: 26-50” / 66-127cm
Hip: 35-60” / 89-152cm
Self fabric: Stretch knits with at least 40% stretch.
Suggestions: Cotton/spandex jersey, rayon/spandex jersey, bamboo/spandex jersey, stretch mesh, stretch lace.
Style B: for the waist and leg bands use a knit with excellent recovery and at least 5% spandex and 50% stretch, such as cotton/spandex jersey or nylon/spandex jersey.
Gusset Lining: cotton jersey.
Style A: 3/8” elastic, such as picot or piping. Fold over elastic (FOE) can also be used.
Style C: stretch lace trim, up to 2 1/2”/6cm wide.
Style D: 1/4-3/8”/6-9mm wide plain soft elastic.
For more information, see the listing in my pattern store.
Until next time, stay safe and healthy, and happy sewing.
Hello, my sewing friends. Things are a bit scary out there, aren't they? So many events shutting down, schools closing, and the first prospective case of COVID-19 has been reported in my county. My close sewing friends and I all fall into the high-risk categories, so I'm feeling a bit nervous.
I don't know about you, but at times like this my hobbies become even more important to me as a way of dealing with stress and keeping my mind occupied. I've been spending a lot of time out in my garden planting vegetables, and at my sewing machine with some quilting and easy sewing projects. I hope you are finding the same sort of comfort in your crafting projects too. On that note, I decided to have a pattern sale in the hopes that this weekend we can all stay in and do a bit of mindless sewing with some easy projects.
Now until March 20, 2020 all patterns are 20% off when you use coupon code STAYHOMEANDSEW. This coupon works both in my pattern store on this website and my Etsy store.
Stay calm and sew on. And wash your hands :) Be safe, my friends, I'll be praying for all of us.
I design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range. Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom made panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body.