Today I am happy to share with you the lovely projects created by my hardworking pattern testers for the Maritza Sports Bra. Enjoy!
Today I'd like to talk about the various fabric choices for the Maritza Sports Bra. While I designed the style to be a supportive bra, the fabric makes a huge impact on whether the breasts are supported or just covered.
Bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and very rarely do we fit perfectly into a pattern straight away. Pattern designers create patterns with a measurement chart of "standard sizes", but each size chart will vary by company. You might fit perfectly into a single size, or you might find that your individual measurements span several sizes. In the tutorial below, I will share you with how to adjust your panty patterns when your waist and hip measurements fall between two different sizes.
Here are the beautiful creations of my pattern testers for the Silvena Boyshort.
I am so happy to share with you my new pattern, the Silvena Boyshort!
My Tanja Boyshort pattern has become one of my best-selling patterns, so I wanted to create for you a boyshort specially designed to use beautiful stretch laces. Let's take a closer look. Ahead of publishing my new lace boyshort pattern, I wanted to share with you a pattern alteration to help achieve the best fit in boyshorts. Do you ever find the back of the leg opening gaping at the bum? Perhaps you have a flatter bum or narrower hips than what the pattern is drafted for. Below is a simple pattern alteration to shorten the width of the leg opening to get a smoother fit. Problem: Gaping at the bumSymptoms:Excess fabric and looseness at the back leg opening Solution: Shorten the width of the leg openingDetermine the excess amount and divide by two. For this example, let's use 1" as the excess amount; divided in two and we have 1/2". On the pattern piece, bring in the inseam at the leg opening 1/2" on each side. You can see the new inseam and leg opening lines below drawn in red. Measure the new inseam length on each side to make sure the lengths match. Adjust if necessary. If you are using a pattern with elastic or bands to finish the leg opening, you will need to shorten those lengths as well.
If you have any questions, or suggestions for other panty fitting tutorials, leave me a comment below. Until next time, Happy Sewing. Now that we are finished with the Delvine Bralette Sew-Along in the Bra Makers group, I am sharing the videos here for you to watch at your convenience. I hope they are helpful! Happy Sewing! Who's ready for a sew-along??? I am! I've been busy filming and editing videos to share with you each week in October. Join me, and every week you can work on a Delvine Bralette with me step by step. WhenI will share a video each Sunday, beginning October 4, 2020 through November 1, 2020. WhereI will be sharing the videos in the Bra Makers Beginners through Intermediate group on Facebook. No need to sign up anywhere, just join the group.
Get yourself and copy of the Delvine Bralette pattern, and join me on Week 1 to hear about fabric and trim choices, helpful tools and sizing. I hope to see you there! I'm back with the third pattern hack for the Delvine Bralette. I wanted to create a longline bralette with a more vintage feel, and also add some features that will increase support and coverage.
My original design idea for the Delvine Bralette was to have a gathered cup. But after I started adding the lace overlay options, there were just too many choices. I decided it would be better to include the gathered cup as a pattern hack. In this quick tutorial video, learn how to change the bust dart into gathers, while still adding a lining with darts for bust support and shaping. If you have any questions, leave me a comment below. Happy Sewing!
When I create patterns, I try to make them easy to customize not only for style but for fit as well. To get an optimal fit in the Delvine Bralette, it may be necessary to move the dart position so that it is aligned with the apex on the body. What is the apex?The apex is the fullest part of the bust, usually where the nipple lies. In the photo above, you can see that the dart aligns with the fullest part of the bust, and also aligns with the vertical seam on the dress form. Depending on your body shape, it may be necessary to alter the apex position on the pattern pieces. Video TutorialBelow is a video tutorial showing you how to determine your apex measurement and how to alter the pattern pieces. As I mention in the video, regardless of what front style you wish to use, you will need to begin with changing the pattern piece for Front A, D, E, F. Once you have changed it, you will need to copy the changes to Front B/C and any of the lace overlay pieces you wish to use. Other Dart QuestionsI have received a few other dart-related questions, so I will answer them here.
Why does the dart go past the apex? Usually when sewing tops and dresses, we want the dart to end 1"+ away from the apex point. If the dart ended directly at the apex, that would create pointiness in the bust, which is not very flattering. On my initial sample of the Delvine, I had the dart end directly at the apex point and the shape it created was pointy and not very pretty. But having the dart end above the apex point creates a nice rounded shape. Why are the dart legs curved? Again, when sewing tops and dresses, we usually see straight dart legs. Curved dart legs create a shape that contours more closely to the body, and in bra-making we definitely want a close fit! The curves in the dart legs create a rounded shape that contours to the roundness of the breast. How can I transfer the dart onto my fabric? When I made my samples, I used transfer marking paper and a tracing wheel. But one of my testers had a brilliant idea! She printed out an extra front piece and cut out the dart area, then used that to trace the dart. Do you have any other dart-related questions? Ask me in the comments section below. Until next time, Happy Sewing! I couldn't make patterns without the invaluable feedback from my hard-working pattern testers! They help me find any errors in the instructions and pattern pieces, and also help me test out my size range. Below are the beautiful creations from my pattern testers for the Delvine Bralette. Oh my goodness... once I took a close look at the main fabric, it made me laugh!!
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CassieI design lingerie sewing patterns for everyday comfort and feminine style in an inclusive size range. Fill up your underwear drawer with beautiful custom-made bras and panties in your favorite fabrics and trims, designed to fit your body. Categories
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